This luxe hardback book is an absolute treat for any jewelry lover of any sort. It will call to you to immerse yourself in all things luxurious, divine and beautiful; the jewelry pieces which men and women have created for so many reasons throughout the past, circa 1890 (Art Nouveau) up to today.
I defy you to purchase VINTAGE JEWELRY DESIGN as a gift and not want a copy for yourself. I haven't seen anything as fabulously educational concerning its topic (as a textbook, it is cohesively written and brilliant), and at the same time as gloriously sumptuous (it is metaphorically like your favorite candlelit bath with bubbles, chocolate, and music), ever. I could continue to praise it in this manner however I would rather explain why it has this marvelous appeal.
VINTAGE JEWELRY DESIGN opens with a very modest, straightforward foreword, by a very famous jewelry designer, Gerda Flockinger. She has studied jewelry since her childhood (her mother was a fashion designer). She chronicles some of her experiences which brought her to her decision to become a jewelry designer. It is a fascinating read by one of this century's greatest jewelry pioneers, a shining star of modern jewelry design.
Following this is the introduction by author Caroline Cox. She really knows her jewelry and she has the most fantastic eye for what the reader will be drawn to and how to sum up each decade. In her introduction, she explains that the intention of this book is to chart "over 100 years of jewelry history" and that it is a "celebration of the best designers and houses of fine jewelry through to key costume jewelry and the most exciting of the craft and the avant-garde." She continues, VINTAGE JEWELRY DESIGN "will help you know in which direction your collecting passion lies." And in fact, that is exactly what it accomplishes.
This amazing book will help you visualize some of your inner dreams of what you think is most beautiful in the jewelry world and where it lies historically. You will emerge more knowledgeable and, if possible, even more passionate than ever about jewelry.
Here is the listing of the Chapters: (note: at the end of each chapter is a summary of key looks of the decade--really wonderful and helpful)
1890-1910: Divinely Decadent --the photos are amazing in this chapter. It is explained that the bourgeoisie came in this period to finally have money to burn. What did they want? Name brand jewelry from the most fantastic design houses. Yes, they were ready to spend it on luxurious jewelry from design houses such as Cartier, Faberge and Tiffany. There is a discussion of L'Art Nouveau, La Belle Epoque, and jewelery as art. You will learn more about some of the leading names of the time and I would be surprised if you don't fall in love with this era.
1910s : The Edwardian Era --this is a fascinating explanation of what "Edwardian" is. FINALLY. Now I understand. I hope I am not the only one who was confused. This, for me, is worth the price of the book alone. It has to do with the splendor of Versailles and a revival of the Rococco look embraced by ladies such as Mrs. John Jacob Astor, who purchased most of her jewelry from Cartier. Lots of filigree work on the jewelry from this era. Also look for hair ornaments and dog collars from this time period.
1920s: Streamlined and Chic --This era is exemplified by design merging with an industrial look. The photographs of Modernist jewelry by Jean Fouquet and Cartier are simply astounding. What an extraordinary change from the previous era. At the same time, Tutankhamen's tomb was discovered and this created a craze for Egyptian style jewelry. I flipped for this, and expect that you will too. Gemstones come to the fore in new and incredibly colorful ways. Coco Chanel appears on the scene. If that doesn't get you excited, nothing will! The key looks listed at the end of this chapter are incredible.
1930s: Hollywood Glamour -- This contains a fascinating learning experience concerning Joseff of Hollywood, who created many of the pieces of jewelry for some of the most famous films of the era, such as "Gone with the Wind". He has also designed for the red carpet crowd, and his designs can be found in department stores. Fascinatingly the reader will learn that when the Depression came, diamond sales plummeted until De Beers came up with the slogan, "A Diamond is Forever". Harry Winston appears on the scene at this point, and utilizes his sincere love for diamonds with clever use of celebrity advertising to create a huge name for himself.
Continuing on, the following Chapters are:
1940s: F for Fake
1950s: Mid-Century Sparkle
1960s: POP Goes the Future
1970s: The Body, Bold and Beautiful
1980s: The power and the Glory
1990s to Now: Future Collectables
and then there are some sections which are very valuable:
Shopping & Collecting Guide
Glossary of Jewelry Terms
Index and
Further Reading and Acknowledgements
As the reader can see I don't wish to wear you all out concerning the continuing chapters (nor do I wish to reveal too much). Jewelry lovers will see that this extraordinary compilation of jewelry from all decades and genres has real reason to exist at the time periods which it did. It is fantastically exciting to understand that jewelry has never existed in a void. The culture which surrounds it affects it in each era.
As Gerda Flockinger states in her foreword, "Jewelry probably predates most other human fashioning, possibly even clothing, certainly writing and perhaps even speech. It must surely originate in the realm of the instincts, close behind food, shelter and sex."
I have never thought of it this way, but my experiences with jewelry are intense and passionate. I definitely agree with her sentiments, therefore. I completely applaud this wonderful book. I learned so much from
VINTAGE JEWELRY DESIGN. I know I shall return to it, to refer to it with great delight, over and over again. I hope that you decide to buy it and that you love it as much as I do. Vintage Jewelry Design: Classics to Collect & Wear (Vintage Fashion Series) - History - Gold - Costume Jewelry - Jewelry'
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